Walter Bonatti, goodbye

Last night Walter Bonatti passed away. He was 81 years old and one of the greatest legends of alpinism of all times.

The great family of alpinists has lost a father today. Last night Walter Bonatti passed away, the alpinist who perhaps more than anyone else marked and guided the last 60 years of world alpinism. Born in Bergamo on 22 June 1930, Bonatti left an indelible trace on alpinism from an early age thanks to his hallmark style, pure, clean and fast, often in winter, which distinguished him from the outset and which he remained true to right to the end.

His ascents marked eras. They include, amongst others, the first ascent of the East Face of Grand Capucin in 1951 and then, four years later, his famous route up the Petit Dru, established solo during 6 days and 5 nights which inspired and also changed the face of alpinism. Walter Bonatti often chose to climb in the most prohibitive conditions, carrying out the first winter ascent not only of the North Face of Cima Ovest di Lavaredo in the Dolomites, but also the Grandes Jorasses in 1963. His final masterpiece, an incredible good-bye to cutting-edge mountaineering, came about two years later when he established a new line, once again alone, up the North Face of the Matterhorn. This was a true manifesto for timeless alpinism, just like the beautiful first ascent of Ghasherbrum IV in 1958 together with Carlo Mauri during the historic expedition led by the great Riccardo Cassin.

His absolutely fundamental support during the first ascent of K2 in 1954 is history, too. Official recognition of his role came extremely late in his life and he had battled hard for this "delayed truth" which had been the cause of great suffering. It would be incorrect to deny the fact that Bonatti's life was marked by this first ascent of K2. And one must also remember another delicate moment in Walter's life, namely the the tragedy on the Freney Central Pillar which cost the lives of 4 alpinists. These events give an idea as to the stature of the man Bonatti, not just the alpinist he was.

In 2004 Bonatti received the the Italian honorific title Cavaliere di Gran Croce which joined his French Legion d'Honneur for having saved the lives of two climbers in the Alps. In 2010 he was awarded the Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award.