Topic - Matterhorn in December
by - Chariot on - 30 Oct 2011
Hi, all!
we want to ascend Matterhorn via Hornli Ridge in December
does anybody know, how many hours it takes in winter conditions to climb from Hornli hut to Solvay and from Solvay to the summit?
any more useful tips about this route?
Cheers
by - Andy Nisbet on - 30 Oct 2011
In reply to Chariot:
I came down it in December 1977 after doing the north face. In deep snow and later bad weather and never having been up it. It took us a day and a half (after 2 and a half up the north face). Not easy!
by - Chariot on - 30 Oct 2011
In reply to Andy Nisbet:
cheers, Andy
we are planning to climb from Hornli hut to Solvay, then next day to the summit and back to Solvay and next day down to Hornli hut
by - Andy Nisbet on - 30 Oct 2011
In reply to Chariot:
> we are planning to climb from Hornli hut to Solvay, then next day to the summit and back to Solvay and next day down to Hornli hut
As always, it depends on conditions. We took a day to reach the Hornli, so add that in. But your schedule should work if there's not too much snow. There will be some technical climbing on snowy rock (in crampons), though.
by - Andy Nisbet on - 30 Oct 2011
In reply to Chariot:
The Hornli Hut was empty but open for winter use (maybe there's only a open room nowadays). We tried to light the fire and made so much smoke they sent a helicopter up from Zermatt to see if the hut was on fire. Once they found it wasn't, they were mellow about it. Wished us luck even.
by - Chariot on - 30 Oct 2011
In reply to Andy Nisbet:
lol, good story
yes, we think, the ascent from Zermatt to the summit and descent back to Zermatt should take us 5 days, depending obviously as you wrote, on conditions.
thanx for your tips!
by - pawelx on - 31 Oct 2011
In reply to Chariot: I tried doing the same with a guide last April. Wasn't too pleasant. First we got stuck in Hornli for 1.5days due to snow and strong winds outside. once we set off, it took us around 9 hours to get to solvay (was snowing most of the time), then we decided to turn back and it took us another 9-10 hours to get back.
Winter room was ok though. I really regretted not having any reading material with me, it was dead boring waiting there with nothing to do.
by - pawelx on - 31 Oct 2011
In reply to Chariot: I think the skilift to schwarzsee should be operating at this time of year. So you can (1) day 1: zermatt to schwarzsee + 2-3 hour walk up to Hornli, (2) (if you're lucky) day 2: up to Solvay, (3) day 3 Solvay to summit and back to Hornli (4) day 4 back to Zermatt. That was our original plan, anyway, which didn't work out due to weather.
by - Chariot on - 01 Nov 2011
In reply to pawelx:
cheers, pawelx! i will remember about a book to read
thanx for very useful tips, mate
by - Andy Nisbet on - 01 Nov 2011
In reply to Chariot:
The night temperature was minus 25 when we were there, so if you have to sleep away from the huts, then you need good equipment.
by - Chariot on - 01 Nov 2011
In reply to Andy Nisbet:
thanx, Andy
we want to sleep in winter rooms in Hornli and Solvay, so it should be alrite
by - Andy Nisbet on - 01 Nov 2011
In reply to Chariot:
Sorry about all the warnings, but it's surprisingly arduous in winter compared to summer when there are crowds up there. Especially in December.
by - Chariot on - 01 Nov 2011
In reply to Andy Nisbet:
Andy, your tips r priceless for me, it is a very serious mountain
yes, we expect it to be a hard fight
we are planning to try Weisshorn (via east ridge) before setting off for Matterhorn by - rob87n on - 01 Nov 2011
In reply to Chariot:
Im heading over with the same objective in 2 weeks, been nice to read the info here! I'll put a post up about how i got on when im down (if i get up) I reckon it could be quite hard
by - Chariot on - 01 Nov 2011
In reply to rob87n:
have a good time, mate!
by - rob87n on - 02 Nov 2011
In reply to Chariot: Difficult question to answer with varying conditions but what would people think the rough grade of the hardest section would be? I'm trying to decide if I'll take my Scarpa Freneys for climbing ability or Vegas for the cold?
by - Tom Ripley on - 02 Nov 2011
In reply to rob87n:
Are you climbing in December too?
You'll want warm boots like Vegas if you ever want to use your toes again afterwards.
If you talking about a summer ascent. The hardest bit of climbing is about Diff. I wore comfy bendy boots like Sportiva Trangos and would recommend them.
Tom
by - Andy Nisbet on - 02 Nov 2011
In reply to rob87n:
The pitch above the Solvay Hut would be Scottish technical 5 at a guess if in winter nick. I thought it was V.diff or Severe in summer?
by - Ben Briggs on - 02 Nov 2011
In reply to rob87n: Definatly the vegas! I descended the hornli about 2 weeks ago and it was quite snowy and icy. We wore crampons for about 3/4 of the descent, there are are big fixed ropes on a section near the top which you just and hand over hand. There are a few rock steps just after the slovay hut which i got pretty gripped on, however we were down climbing in crampons unroped. I started moaning i wanted to rap so we got the rope out only to find we were about 10m from the hut! There are bolts and rings ect protecting any tricky stuff but most of it is a scramble. Will be a nice time to do it as there will be very few around although it is a pretty serious mountain and even more so in winter conditions.
by - rob87n on - 02 Nov 2011
In reply to Ben Briggs: Cheers again guys, I was thinking I'd be better packing my vega's alright. They're due another trip anyway!
Zaloguj
Zarejestruj
FAQ
Szukaj
Użytkownicy
na fejsie zapodał lanserską fotę z Triglava 
TG